As the northern California fog gave way to sunshine we donned our gear for a jaunt to Bolinas; a city located just 30 miles north of San Francisco. We chose the longest of three possible routes, following Fairfax-Bolinas Road twisting over golden hills, through the dense redwood forest, and sweeping vistas of mountain and sea. 

Bolinas' eclectic residents have so consistently removed all signs to their town that authorities have stopped replacing them. However, determined epicureans headed for the Coast Café and ardent appreciators of eclectica will undoubtedly find it.

Owned by commercial fisherman David Liebenstein, sommelier Rosanne LaVoy, and Chef David Cook (from San Francisco's Hayes Street Grill), food comes first. Everything—beef, fish, cheese, butter, milk, fruits, and vegetables—come fresh from local farms and the sea.

We clambered to the middle of a long table outdoors just as the couple at the end exited without ordering, mumbling they’d waited too long. Ms. LaVoy smiled and shrugged. "They need to get on Bolinas time."

“We’re in no hurry!” we said, putting in our orders for coffee. The guy next to us advised that the fish and chips are the best on earth and from previous visits I can vouch for that. Plus, the salads and vegetarian French onion soup are delicious too. The three of us finally settled on a homemade veggie burger, huevos rancheros over easy, and a spinach and cheese omelet.

All tasty, elegantly executed, and in good time, yet we lingered, enjoying our view of the street and Smiley’s Saloon and Motel before strolling through town. The Grand Hotel Shop & Gallery was worth browsing for antiques, vintage clothing, jewelry, and books. And the town’s art and architecture, native gardens, and beautifully rusting classic vehicles encourage gawking.

During our visit to the beach, the sun was shining and the tide was down, but the surf was up and every man, woman, child and dog, seemed to be enjoying the waves. We rode the curves of Highway 1, dawdling so much that we arrived home past sunset, our stomachs still full.

By Carla King

Carla King's book American Borders is the story of breakdowns in small towns all around the USA on a Russian sidecar motorcycle. Find other stories, books, and follow her solo journeys in India, China, Europe and Africa at www.CarlaKing.com.

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